Into Punjab: The Golden Temple at Amritsar

We were apprehensive about the crowds, wondering if we’d have to line up for an hour –  as the visitors at the next table said they had to do.  But the Colonel got us up before 7, and it was still early enough to escape the hordes.  Here are some pictures:

 

 

The people in Punjab look markedly different from those of Himachal Pradesh.  For one thing, a lot of them have beards and wear turbans.

What a fascinating country is.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

Opulence and Sacredness: The Tibetan Buddhist Monastery at Sherabling

This trip has turned out to be about mountains, and sacred places, and people.

Self thinks nothing she’s seen in her life can equal the grandeur and majesty of the snow-capped Himalayas.  Or the beauty of the Kangra Valley.  Or the warmth of the people she’s met in Dharamsala and Bir.

Then there are the temples, everywhere she looks temples –  Buddhist as well as Hindu.  And the old Anglican churches, too.

Today she visited another Tibetan Buddhist monastery, the one at Sherabling.  She and her host happened to arrive while the monks were saying their prayers.  Imagine, if you will, stumbling into a vast hall filled with chanting monks.  Can anything equal the power of the human voice, multiplied a hundred fold, echoing off walls decorated with Tibetan script and paintings, all overseen by a gigantic statue of a serenely enigmatic Buddha?

Here are pictures self took today at the Palpung Sherabling Monastery:

The Buddha in the Monastery at Sherabling. Self is sorry that this photo doesn't quite capture the sense of scale. The altar is at the back of a huge prayer hall.

Relaxing After Prayers

Imagine, if you can, entire walls filled with depictions such as this . . .

The courtyard of the monastery at Sherabling: the monks are leaving the prayer hall and proceeding to their rooms.

When all the monks had dispersed after prayers, self suddenly heard a gong being beaten, from some upper floor of the monastery.  It went on and on and on and on, and her heart almost stopped, the sound was so un-earthly.  Later, she learned from an information booklet procured by her kind host from the monastery front office that there is actually a CD recording of the sacred monastic chants this monastery has made famous and, of all things, it was even awarded a Grammy for “Best Traditional World Music” at “the Staples Center in Los Angeles on February 8, 2004.”

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

The Kindness of Strangers

It is raining, this morning, in Bir.  The rain began last night.  Self had a big bowl of soup and two servings of pudding for lunch, so she thought she might just do with soup for dinner.  But the minute she emerged from her room, her hosts did, too, and before she knew it, she was seated with them in the dining room and eating a full dinner of lamb curry, lentils, salad, chapatis, and so forth.  After a few minutes, we were joined by a young Frenchwoman, who comes once a week to teach French to the Colonel’s wife.

The Frenchwoman, whose name was Marion, was also teaching French to the monks in the nearby temples.  “What is it like?” I asked her.  “It is like teaching little children,” she said.  The woman had been a psychotherapist before.  Self found out only afterwards, when dinner was over and everyone was getting up to go.

Tomorrow self bids adieu to Bir; her hosts are driving her to Amritsar.  Self thinks how lucky she is:  everywhere in India, she has encountered only nice people, especially in Dharamsala and Bir.  And now she is going to get to see the Golden Temple, which self knows only from the bloody stand-off between Sikhs and the Indian Army, decades ago.

When self was flying over from the States, her seatmate happened to be an Austrian woman who was on her way to an ashram in Amritsar.  At that time, self’s plans were to meet up with Mrinalini and go with her to Bikaner and Udaipur.  Self was curious about Amritsar, and her seatmate told her that this was her fourth trip to the temple.  She returns every year, and always stays about a month.  Now, as it turns out, self, like the Austrian woman, is going to Amritsar after all.  Strange symmetry!

Self is so glad that she got to cool her heels in Bir.  The Colonel’s Resort is lovely –  a working farm, where they grow almost everything that is served to their guests.  And the food is so delicious.

Lucky self.  Lucky, lucky, lucky!

This morning she skyped with the husband, for the first time during this trip.  He got take-out from Lobster Shack and was plannng to see a movie tomorrow, maybe even another one on Sunday (before or after the Superbowl).  We ran through the list of movies showing, and he asked which ones self wanted to see.  Self knew already because she’d looked at Eric Snider’s blog last night.  She ticked off her top three:  “The Grey,” “Haywire,” or “The Iron Lady.”  She doesn’t like to see scary movies, so she told the husband that he might want to see “Chronicle” (This movie only earned a B- from Mr. Snider, but even then, it ranked better than the Daniel Radcliffe I-am-no-longer-Harry-Potter-see-my-range movie, “The Woman in Black.”)  He said he’d probably end up seeing “Underworld.”

The husband also told self that he had looked up Amritsar on the web.  He said it looked simply amazing.  “It’s a very holy place to the Sikhs,” he said.  Something like Mecca is to Moslems.

So now, self too goes on the web and calls forth pictures.  Wow!  It really is golden, the temple. Not only that, she had no idea how huge it was.  (But everything in India strikes self as simply tremendous: from the Himalayan mountains to the deep valleys to the monasteries and temples.  The roads and highways, in sharp contrast, are exceedingly narrow.  And when one considers that this is a very large country, with so many people, self wonders why they don’t consider widening the highways — most of the time, self traversed highways that were only one lane in either direction)

Here, self is constantly thinking of Ying, with whom she saw Angkor Wat.  Ying’s mother was Indian, and she told self that their next trip together should be to India.  Now, whenever self sees a temple, she goes inside and converses silently to Ying.  See this, Ying?  I did it, I really did it!  And you are with me, now, in India, in spirit.

Somewhere she read that the Governator was in Delhi for a Sustainable Development Summit.  Now she reads a headline:  “Arnold did not get to see the Taj Mahal.”  How absolutely hilarious!  That’s you and self, Ahr-nuld.  That’s you and self.

But, this will not be self’s last trip to India, she is sure.  In fact, she wants to bring the family here, as early as next year.

Stay tuned.

Still Reading ONE STORY in India

Remember the story self was reading in Dharamsala, Benjamin Solomon’s “Who Cycles Into Our Valley,” in One Story Issue Number 154 (Geez!  Why do they have to make the print so tiny? Self can barely read the Issue number, she’s not sure if the number is 154 or 164)?  She has been tending that same story for days, reading a page at a time.  It fascinates her.  She decided to bring the story along on this trip because it’s about a father and son who take a trip together, and is tangentially about India (the son is an English teacher in India).  But it’s really about travel, all kinds of travel (inner and outward; emotional as well as physical).  And also about distortion.  And about a certain kind of emotional fragility.  And the sentences are so long (not quite as long as Saramago’s, but longer than a normal American sentence) — they interest her.

There is an extraordinary paragraph about the burial of a dog, and self wishes she could type out the whole thing, but it is such a long paragraph that it goes on for two whole pages, and self does not have the time.  After all, she is in India, birthplace of all the great religions of the world (with the exception of Christianity), and her mind is a-buzz with all the temples she has seen, and all the lanes she has walked, and all the things she has learned, about other people as well as herself.  The reason the paragraph is so great is that the son tries to give away a shovel to an Indian farmer who has just helped him dig a hole for his dead dog, and the farmer thinks it’s a lousy shovel.  Here’s part of the paragraph:

This is a bad shovel, said the farmer.  You can have it, said the son, I don’t have a use for it now.  The farmer looked at the shovel critically and said he might be able to use it, and then he scooped the dirt down over the dog and handed the son the shovel and they all walked back to the son’s motorcycle together.  Take the shovel, said the son, but the farmer wouldn’t take it, and for a month the shovel sat in the corner of his apartment, reminding him that when his girlfriend had called to say that the dog was dead, his very first feeling, before sadness, had been relief because now there was one less thing that tied him to her.

Then it’s back to the present, to the father-son trip.  The two are cycling up a hill, “pushing towards a massive sun that sits on the hilltop like a boulder poised to tumble.”

This is so easy, thinks the father as they climb towards the sun, so much easier this physical effort than the other kind, the work of life, loving people, getting left by people, trying to reach people who are far away.  We should live like this, he thinks, somehow this should be the normal way of life.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

Sightings: The Village of Bir

“The Iron Lady” is showing in Aquarius, and there are two new movies self wants to see:  “The Grey” and “Haywire.”  She asked the husband what he was having for dinner (Thursday night in California) and she doesn’t know why he hesitated before saying, Popeye’s.

It continues cold in Bir, but at least self was able to get another full night’s sleep, and required only two comforters instead of the three she required, her first night back after Dharamsala.  The Colonel provided self with a hot water bottle to warm up the bed.  He and his wife are the sweetest, kindest, most gentle people self has ever met.  She has told them many times that she intends to come back.

Today, self walked to the village.  She stopped at a small clinic and asked the doctor if he had anything for colds.

“Allopathic or Ayurvedic?” he asked self.

Allopathic, self discovered, means Western medicine.  And Ayurvedic means herbal.  Naturally, she chose Ayurvedic.  The doctor gave her a small bottle of powder and a larger bottle of syrup, and said she had to mix the two with hot water and drink it.  Then he said, “No more tea for now.”  Aaargh!  And the Colonel and his wife serve the most delicious tea, which they grow themselves!

Then self went further and passed a restaurant.  She thinks the sign said something like GARDEN CAFE.  She went inside and took a look at the menu.  These were some of the items:

Pizza

  • Margarita Pizza:  120 rupees (US$ 2.42)
  • Al Fungi Pizza:  130 rupees (US$ 2.62)
  • Chicken Pizza:  160 rupees (US $3.22)
  • Mutton Pizza:  160 rupees

Pasta

  • Veg Local Tibetan Noodle Spaghetti:  100 rupees (US $2)
  • Non-Veg. Tibetan Noodle Spaghetti:  130 rupees
  • Veg. Original Spaghetti Pasta:  130 rupees
  • Non-Veg. Original Spaghetti Pasta:  160 rupees

Baked Goodies (baked depending on baker’s mood)

  • Walnut Brownie:  50 rupees  (US$ 1)
  • Banana Walnut:  40 rupees (US$ .80)
  • Carrot Cake:  50 rupees
  • Apple Cake:  60 rupees

From a Times of India lying on a nearby table, self learned that Schwarzenegger had been in Delhi, attending the 12th Delhi Sustainable Development Summit, and that 74 people had been killed in “Egypt soccer pitch violence.”

Self with the Tibetan cook of the restaurant self stopped at today, on the way to Bir Village. The cook spoke surprisingly good English -- picked up, she said, from visiting tourists.

And here are some pictures self took in and around Bir:

Tibetan prayer flags. There is quite a sizable Tibetan colony in Bir.

A citizen of Bir

At the entrance to yet another temple in Bir. The temples are by far the grandest buildings in this small village -- no doubt funded by generous donations.

Self’s next destination will be Amritsar, site of the famous Golden Temple.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

Impressions (after 1 Week in Northern India)

  • Northern India is a lot like Northern California –  only with much taller and steeper mountains.
  • Indian people are just like you and me.
  • India has the most heavenly desserts you have never heard of.
  • After you crow about how many pieces you’ve had accepted for publication in a certain span of time, you will get nothing but rejections for an even longer span of time (Self checks her e-mail religiously, that’s how she knows.  Aaargh!)
  • Mumbai is the New York of India.  New Delhi (the capital) is 10x more “hip” than Washington, DC.
  • Indian women are some of the most beautiful women in the whole world.
  • They are strict on security here.
  • India is cold (Ha ha ha, what a shock!).  At least, northern India in January is.  Dharamsala was downright freezing.
  • Shiva is a very cool God.  He covered himself in ash on his wedding day, causing his in-laws to faint at the first sight of him.
  • One must never bring anything metal into the house on a Saturday.  The corollary to this rule is:  one must never get one’s hair cut on a Saturday, because cutting involves using scissors.
  • One must never wash one’s hair on a Monday.
  • Tibetans must be pretty rich to be able to afford all those huge temples in Bir.
  • Tibetan monks are among the healthiest-looking, most well-fed people in northern India.
  • Indian drivers are among the craziest drivers in the entire world –  crazier even than Filipino drivers and definitely crazier than New York City cab drivers.
  • Tea-drinking is to India what coffee-drinking is to the rest of the world (except perhaps Britain)
  • There are no Starbucks here, or at least there were none in the places self frequented.  Self has seen a McDonald’s, however.
  • Women do most of the carrying around here.  At least, they seem to in the rural areas.
  • One good cow can provide enough milk to sustain a family of five or six people.
  • One must attempt, if possible, to avoid dying when the sun is in the southern hemisphere.  (Since the sun is in the southern hemisphere six months of the year, self surmises it must take extra grace or fortitude to put off dying until a more auspicious time)

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

Bir, Himachal Pradesh: Day 1

Self awakened to bright sunshine.  She looked at her watch:  she had been asleep for seven blissful hours.

Tea was brought to the room at around 9:15 a.m.

Then self was taken for a walk.  She saw farms and farm animals.

She passed a school.

And a pretty woman carrying a load of cow dung.

And then her kind host took her to see a Buddhist monastery.  And it was one of the biggest Buddhist monasteries self had ever seen.

Self had never expected to find a Buddhist monastery of such size and magnificence.  In Bir.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

The Shiva Temple in Baijnath, Himachal Pradesh

A Drummer, Shiva Temple, Baijnath

Self dredged up the courage to ring the bell, too (though she couldn't ask anyone to take her picture while doing it)

Odyssey continues.  Drove through many small towns.  Passed Rajiv Gandhi Ayuverdic Medical College.  Passed Palampur.  Passed roadside carts selling Tibetan food.  Passed sign saying SPERM STATION in big, white block letters.

Learned that himachal stands for snow, and pradesh for a place.  The province she is in –  Himachal Pradesh –  means “Place of Snow.”

Somewhere around here is a masseuse and an acupuncturist.  At first possible opportunity, must locate.

Heard again the magical word “Manali” — the name of a four-star resort somewhere in India, but not reachable by self at her present location.

Mind keeps returning to the Snow Crest Inn and the two stoic brothers.  Remembered there occurred an electricity outage during her first night in Dharamsala, and remembered thinking she was about to freeze to death.  Was just about to remove her contacs when it happened.  Crawled into bed.  Shivered.  Was saved.  The heater was again operational.  Minutes after salvation, heard knocks at her door and an urgent male voice inquiring:  “Madame, are you all right?”  Remembered yelling through the door:  “I’m freeeezing!”

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

Dinner, Snow Crest Inn, Nandini Village, Dharamsala

Here’s what self had for dinner last night, and the previous night as well (sooo yummy!)

Alloo Gobhi and Chicken with Egg Fried Rice (Self instructed the brother who doubles as the cook to "Hold the spice!")

When self first arrived, she told the brothers who work at the front desk of Snow Crest Inn that she would like to order some food from their kitchen, as she hadn’t yet had lunch.  They promptly produced a menu, and then said, “You like Chinese, madame?  We have Chinese!”

Self did not know what to say in response.  She looked down the menu and saw Chicken Kadal, Fried Papad, Allo Prantha.  And, indeed, there were also items like Vegetarian Fried Rice, Vegetarian Chop Shey (???), Cheese Chop Shey (more ???) and American Chop Shey (!!!???)

Since the brothers kept putting forth the fried rice option, self finally agreed to chicken fried rice.  “With egg, Madame?” asked the taller brother (who, self just discovered, is also the cook).

Yes, with egg!

A few minutes later, it was delivered to self’s room.  Do you know, it was the most delicious fried rice self has ever tasted.  Even though the serving was huge, self entirely cleaned her plate.

It is a beautiful, beautiful day.  Sun strikes the topmost peaks of the mountains self can see from her hotel window.  What are those mountains called?  Self doesn’t know, but she aims to find out.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers.  Stay tuned.

More Mountains!

View from the Buddhist Temple in Dharamsala

Another view from the Buddhist Temple in Dharamsala

« Older entries

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 54 other followers