Saturday Morning, Olympics Day 2

Hubby and self slept past 1 a.m. last night, giddy from watching the Olympic opening ceremonies which, in self’s humble opinion, were the most spectacularly beautiful opening ceremonies self had ever seen, worthy of a Chinese costume epic by Zhang Yimou. She didn’t recognize Li Ning, her crush of 24 years ago, (pardon for sounding a bit hyperbolic, dear blog readers) and the Philippine delegation looked cool in their sky-blue barongs (but why no women athletes?), and it was fun to see Rafael Nadal grinning like a schoolboy, and ditto for Jason Kidd and all the other highly paid athletes who seemed thrilled, simply thrilled to be part of the parade. George Bush looked relaxed; Putin did not crack a smile when the U.S. delegation marched past him. Sarkozy did not have gorgeous Carla by his side, and when self saw the Russian delegation she couldn’t help thinking about Georgia, and about her Georgian student at xxxx community college, Joe D, who’d written so eloquently about the bloody decade he’d just lived through and which he hoped (Alas!) would be the last violent decade for his country.

This morning, self keeps glancing at her watch. Realizes she is keeping time, wondering when son and Sean will arrive at the Hotel Domus Aurelia. The hotel staff were so nice, they e-mailed son detailed instructions how to get there from Ciampino Airport. (Estimated time from Termini to the hotel: around 75 minutes)

Then, self picks up a copy of Calyx to relax, and she remembers another student, Gillian, who self would meet for coffee about every other month, right here in Peet’s on Broadway. When they last met, Gillian imparted the sad news that she was shortly to go home to Oregon. Her parents wouldn’t continue to fund her living in San Francisco unless she got a job or enrolled in a regular four-year college. Self had one of those brainstorms that occur to her oh, about once every six months.

“Work for Calyx!” self told Gillian.

Gillian’s eyes lit up.

That same day, self e-mailed Beverly McFarland. The next day, Beverly e-mailed Gillian. And, last week, self received a happy e-mail from Gillian: it was all settled, she’d be interning for Calyx for the rest of the summer. Super!!! Self wrote Gillian: “You and Calyx are a good fit.”

Now, starting from the back of the Calyx journal (which is a habit self started years, perhaps even decades, ago), she sees a most interesting ad for:

CELEBRATION RECORDINGS

invites you to visit the website

celebration1.org

for beautiful Classical piano CDs

including exquisite music
by women composers
to accompany
your reading of
Calyx

lovely as gifts with conscience

your check is written
directly to
grass-roots
not-for-profit organizations
addressing global issues

Self must investigate! Stay tuned, dear blog readers, stay tuned.

Thea Ivens Had This Great Idea

And that was, in her own words, “to connect, participate, collaborate, and create an audience for Filipino American artists and strengthen the diversity in the field of arts.”

And so she created this website: Filipino American Artists Network, which as far as I can tell she runs single-handedly.

And the website has a Fil-Am artists calendar which is called “FilAm Events.” Check it out here:

www.filamartists.com/2008/07/06/filam-calendar/

Better yet, post a listing.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers, stay tuned.

Discovery of the Day

Website of Cuban dancer Carlos Acosta: Gorgeous, simply gorgeous.

Nonfiction Essay Contest: Sponsored by ravingdove.org

Raving Dove, a nonprofit, anti-war, online literary journal, is now accepting submissions for its first annual Evolve Beyond Violence Nonfiction Essay Award. First-place prize: $1,000, publicity, and publication in Raving Dove’s fall 2008 edition. Three honorable mentions will also be published. Entries are open to the international community through September 1, 2008. Specific entry requirements can be found at www.ravingdove.com

Essay Themes: Anti-war, anti-violence, human rights, and/or peace-related topics. The writing can either depict the tragedy of violence and war, or the hope that one day we can evolve beyond it. Submissions should be thought-provoking and paint a moving portrait of our static human condition. Writing will be judged equally on excellence of writing and the ability to effectively communicate the chosen theme. Raving Dove’s editor and board of directors will serve as judges.

Still Shabbat: A Visit to the Old Cemetery

Six students went to the Dean in self’s absence to say they didn’t know where or when they were supposed to take their final (thereby putting her in the equivalent of Dean Dog-House). Self had arranged for a sub, she had waited until the last day of the quarter to leave for Tel Aviv, and still the unexpected always finds a way to trip her up. Now, self knows she must put all thoughts of school out of her head. One thing’s for certain: she’s never going to have this experience again, this traveling (mostly alone) in this strange and heartbreaking city. And all her emotions are pitched to such a fine point here, she should be writing like crazy, not worrying about what awaits her (probably anxiety, probably exhaustion) back home.

Self spent the entire afternoon with Ying. Afterwards, it took her a long time (almost 30 minutes) to hail a cab, because first she sat on a bench in a bus stop and read a book, being none too excited to head back to the apartment on Ruppin Street. When she did finally stand up and flag down a cab, he said he would charge her 30 shekel, which was five more than what she usually pays for the exact same route. So, thinking fast, self asked if he wouldn’t mind just dropping her off at Trumpeldor Cemetery instead. Whereupon, the following conversation ensued:

Taxi Driver: That’s the old cemetery.

Self: Yes. Can you take me there?

Taxi Driver: Why you want to go there?

Self: I want to see it. I’m curious.

Taxi Driver: It is closed. Closed for Shabbat.

Self: But can’t I peek through a gate or something?

The driver took off. Suddenly, we passed a long wall of light-colored stone. The cab stopped in front of an iron gate. The driver laughed, almost delightedly (self thought): “Here it is!”

Suddenly, he asked self, “You like Arabic music?” Self gawped at him with her mouth open. “This music (on the radio) — you like it?”

Self said she liked it, very much in fact.

The driver said, “It is Arabian lute. You know? We call it oud. I play it.”

Self said, “You do??? Where? In a club? Can I listen?”

And, the floodgates opened, dear blog readers. What ensued next was this: self got the address of a music store in Old Jaffa that sells CDs of Arabic music, and the titles of the driver’s three favorite CDs. Then, the address of the home of the driver’s music teacher (”Very famous!” the driver said. “Give him my name!”). Then, the address to the home of the French ambassador, on Toulouse Street in Old Jaffa. Then, the taxi driver’s telephone number. Then, the telephone number of the taxi driver’s son, who he said is “a famous comic book artist” in Tel Aviv, and who is only 25 years old!

Then, taxi driver asked self what she did. And self said (for the first time not even thinking twice) that she was a writer. And the taxi driver again laughed delightedly and pounded his steering wheel. And he asked, “From where?” And self would have said, “The Philippines,” but whenever she does, here, people always say, “You talk like an American.” So now she simply says, “California.”

And, eventually, self does get out of the cab, and the driver gives her many instructions on how to walk back to Ruppin street, and then she’s peering through the old iron gates, and she is fascinated by the fresh wreaths she sees on many of the graves, and she stays a long time because she wants to take it all in, even the views of the surrounding tenements and narrow alleyways, and self finds herself taking many, many pictures.

Then, she finds her way back to Ben Yehuda street and starts walking home. And on the way, she passes no less than three youth hostels, and stops at each one to inquire about their rates, for son has expressed a desire to visit Tel Aviv someday with Kramer. Now, because it has been such a moving day, self wishes to quote a passage about the Trumpeldor Cemetery from the Barbara Mann book, A Place in History:

The cemetery was founded during the 1902 cholera epidemic in Jaffa. Ottoman officials forbade the burial of the dead within the city walls, particularly given the proximity of the Jewish cemetery in Adjami to the center of town. Jewish community leaders requested an alternative, and Shimon Rokach was granted permission to purchase twelve dunam of land in the name of the Committee of the United Communities of Ashkenazi and Sephardi Groups, in what was then called the Lands of North Jaffa. According to a story, the area consisted largely of shifting sand and was thus difficult to cultivate. Legend also has it that holy books were buried in a special grave and two “black weddings” were held at the site in an effort to halt the epidemic. (It was believed that these community-sponsored ceremonies, in which orphans were married off, would lead God to look favorably upon the charity of the community, and have mercy, thus easing the epidemic) It was only five years later that the first plan to build a modern Jewish neighborhood outside of Jaffa was announced. In essence, then, Tel Aviv began with its dead. In the words of a historian, “the city followed its graves.”

Stay tuned, dear blog readers, stay tuned.

Oh, the Twists and Turns of Fate

This morning, self read in her Barbara Mann book about something called “The Historical Museum of Tel Aviv - Jaffa.” After looking it up on the web, self found that it was on the exact same street as the Rubin Museum. And since self has already aced taking the No. 4 bus — which has a stop just one block from this apartment — self decided to chance going there (putting off for the time being all thoughts of checking out hotel in Old Jaffa– self has now decided that the only attitude she should adopt in her present circumstances is: Que sera, sera).

So, self set off bright and early, and she did get to Bialik Street, and she again traversed the narrow edge of the sidewalk that had not been dug up by all the construction, and she arrived at said building, and it was very old and dilapidated, and there was a sign on a wall next to it, but as the sign was in Hebrew self knew not what the sign said. Instead, she marched smartly up the steps and put a hand on the door handle, and found that the door was locked. Since the door was made of glass, self peered inside and saw a circular hallway with old photographs and musty-looking memorabilia. In fact, hallway reminded self very much of her grandfather’s house on Burgos Street in Bacolod City, a house self had known all her life as “The Big House.” Anyhoo, self also noticed that there was a buzzer, and this she contrived to ring — twice. But no butler or receptionist appeared. So self had to make her way back out to the dusty street. And she had to walk forlornly to the bus stop (stopping first at a shoe store and then at a store selling kitchen gadgetry, where she was very much tempted to buy silicon potholders in the shape of rhinoceri — self thinks that is the correct way to pluralize “rhinocerus,” though it sounds strange — but these were going for 40 shekels each, which self computed as something like US$ 11.50 each. Never mind). And then she went home for a quick lunch before heading to the hospital to see Ying.

And, as it turned out, Mila the caregiver was also at home having a quick lunch, and self smelled her frying something delicious. But since self had been admonished by Dear Bro to remember at all times that Mila is not there to serve anyone except Ying (as if self, after all these years of living in the States, would ever dream of asking someone to serve her), self heated up a little slice of quiche in the toaster oven.

And then self set off for the hospital. Since self knows that she is in poor physical shape and cannot take the humongous walks that she tried her first two days here, and since she doesn’t want to use up her cash on cab rides, she decides to take the bus. Eureka! Her brother tells her there are these little mini-vans wandering around the city, and each follow a different coded route: orange, yellow, etc. And he says they are much cheaper than cabs. And why he only felt moved to divulge this information today is completely beyond self. But she did find one of those things and she arrived at the hospital quickly and all she had to do was pay 5 shekels.

And self expected to find a very haggard-looking Ying, because everytime Dear Bro returns from the hospital he looks on the edge of collapse, and the little boy is teary-eyed, and Mila sounds depressed. But to self’s extreme bewilderment, Ying is sitting up in her bed, very bright-eyed, and greets self with a warm smile when self walks into the room.

@@!!$####

“Aren’t you sick?” self blurts out.

“Well, it comes and goes,” Ying says.

And then we partake in the two-hour gabfest to end all gabfests.

Ying confides in self that she is jealous of the closeness between Dear Bro and self’s nephew. Self assures Ying that from, all self has observed, nephew is indeed very very attached to Ying.

“No,” Ying says. “I meant: I am jealous of the way my husband is so affectionate with our son. He never hugs or kisses me anymore.”

(Self resolves to smack Dear Bro at the first opportunity. Here is a woman with no hair and fragile physique, and Dear Bro is still playing this ridiculous game of transference or what-have-you)

Self says smartly, “Oh, it’s a thing with Filipino men. They can never show you how much they love you. Physically, that is. But, just think: every time YH hugs F, he is showing you that he really wants to hug you.” Which self knows sounds absolutely ridiculous, dear blog readers, but is absolutely true. Self knows from long experience. Because hubby is exactly the same way.

So Ying gives self a big smile. And then she asks self if self would like to see pictures of Ying’s baby girl, Anita. And self is all agog, and Ying opens her laptop, and there self sees the cutest, most precious little girl that one could ever imagine: a girl with fair, fair skin and even fairer hair, and the cutest pointed chin. Self says, “She looks just like you!”

And Ying says, “You think so? But she has YH’s nose and cheeks and lips!”

And self looks again, closely, and realizes that this is so.

And then Ying shows self pictures of her new dog, Tiger, a mini-Dachshund. And self sees as well pictures of Ying’s other dog, her beagle Burmie. And self and Ying exchange beagle stories. And agree vehemently that beagles are not too bright. But she and self both waxed ecstatic over a beagle’s winning the latest Westminster Dog Show.

And then Ying removes her stylish scarf (turns out Dearest Mum has presented Ying with a whole array of these stylish scarves), and self sees that there is a very soft fuzz covering Ying’s entire head. Actually, self tells Ying, “You look very good with no hair. It’s like an early Sinead O’Connor look. Or a Natalie Portman look from ‘V is for Vendetta.’ “

Ying says she misses having long hair. At this point, Mila comes in. And since Mila has very fashionable hair — short, with spiky ends — self tells Ying that she should get a haircut like Mila’s. When her hair grows in, that is.

Two nurses drop by to say hello, and they are both young and friendly and tell Ying she looks beautiful (which she does, even with no hair).

And, before self knows it, two hours have passed by. And self tells Ying she will stop by again, perhaps as soon as tonight. But there’s a concert she wants to catch. At the Felicja Blumental Music Center on 26 Bialik Street (which is quickly becoming self’s hangout of choice in Tel Aviv).

Stay tuned, dear blog readers, stay tuned.

The Beaches, The Land, The City

Self trying her best to push all negativity out of her mind. She’s in the kitchen, sipping tea, listening to her brother talk in his slow, sonorous way to a hapless secretary who is in some sort of muddle about his return ticket to Manila. In the usual complicated way of self’s family (where nothing is straightforward, and everyone goes flapping around like chickens without heads), self’s brother and nephew are returning to Manila the same day as self, though a few hours later (So we cannot share a taxi: this self discovered after timidly asking — after all, it would save them both 130 shekels, but brother gave her such a look of open-mouthed amazement that the utterance died away in her mouth almost as soon as she had uttered it). In the meantime, self’s Dearest Mum, Ying’s baby daughter, and the baby’s yaya are arriving on April 2 and will stay the rest of the month of April.

In addition, on April 1, we are losing this apartment. So brother has been running all over Tel Aviv the last few days, hunting for a place that is “nice” and “suitable” to house Dearest Mum. This morning, self suggested she move out, to ease the congestion (brother had been hinting, none too subtly, that she do so, the last few days), and brother acquiesced with alacrity. So self went on the internet and found a very cheap hotel in Old Jaffa. When she showed the hotel website to her brother, and asked if he thought it would be safe (The website said the hotel was perfect for the budget traveler who was not bothered by noise and who didn’t mind being next to the flea market), brother said impatiently that the hotel looked fine. He, however, had found a nice apartment for Dearest Mum, a place where she would “feel good” about staying, and not be frightened (Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! And would the elimination of one person — self — make so much difference to the “crowding” he is so afraid of subjecting Dearest Mum to ???)

This morning, the minute Dear Bro left the apartment (leaving nephew behind, for the fourth day in a row, so that the poor kid became cranky and cried), self cracked her brains how to entertain the poor child and decided on a walk on the beach. This fabled beachfront had been invisible to self since her arrival, last Sunday, though brother was simply amazed that self had not picked herself up and walked there, scoffing, “It’s only two blocks away!” Forgetting, of course, that self visits Ying everyday, walks to the hospital and back (five miles each way) to save on taxi fare, plays games with his son, keeps the child company when he is afraid/ bored/ cranky/ tired and what-have-you. And the child is so weepy! As is understandable, when his mother is so sick. But being with her nephew round-the-clock makes self long exceedingly for son, who is such an angel of intuition that he knows when she is thinking/ writing and holds his tongue, and only opens his mouth when he senses his mother has returned to earth. (Son, self promises, I’ll take you here one day. I will)

So here’s what happened on self’s walk with nephew: We looked for a landmark called the Opera Tower, and headed toward it. And the day was gray and blustery, and along the beachfront directly in front of us, a young woman turned her head and we saw she was Filipina. And this comely lass was walking hand in hand with a rather stooped, aged gent in a gray suit. And self counted two McDonald’s on the stretch between the Sheraton Moriah and another Sheraton, and in between these somewhat tawdry-looking hotels (putting self in mind of Torremolinos, Spain, circa 1996) was the U. S. Embassy, an edifice of light-colored stone, with very well-muscled guards in dark blue uniforms standing with rifles at the ready, in case anyone should be planning an attack landing on the beach. Nephew asked if self would like to “drop by,” after all it was her embassy. Self said she wasn’t feeling inclined to do so at the moment.

Nephew got tired very quickly, and insisted that they return to the apartment. And self was going brain-dead with his non-stop prattling, so she agreed. And as soon as they were back, self sought relief by again picking up the Barbara Mann book, A Place in History, and on p. 177 she found this poem commemmorating a woman’s arrival in Palestine:

“Tel Aviv, 1935″

    by Leah Goldberg

The masts on the housetop then, were
like the masts of Columbus’ ships, and
every raven that perched on their tips
announced a different shore.

And the kit-bags of the travelers
walked down the streets, and the
language of an alien land was plunged
into the hamsin-days like the blade of
a cold knife.

How could the air of a small city
support so many childhood memories,
loves that were shed, that were stripped
somewhere?

Like pictures turning black inside a
camera, they all turned inside out: pure
winter nights, rainy summer nights of
overseas, and shadowy mornings of
great cities.

And the sound of steps behind your
back drummed marching songs of
foreign troops; and — so it seemed — if
you but turn your head, there’s your
town’s church floating in the sea.

A Visit to the Rubin Museum, 14 Bialik Street

A miracle. Self dragged her 10-year-old nephew to a museum. The Rubin Museum on No. 14 Bialik Street. Self managed to find the place after inquiring from a woman waiting at a bus stop on Ben Yehuda Ave. The woman said, “You are going in the wrong direction! It is that way! Near Allenby!” Then, she made as if to grasp self’s arm and said, “Come on the bus with me! I will take you there!” But a quick check of self’s wallet revealed — nothing, not a single shekel. In fact, self had been on her way to the money-changers on the corner. So she waved the woman on, and as the woman got on the bus, she turned back to self and yelled, “Take the No. 4 bus! It is about eight stops away!”So, with this very heartening beginning, self changed her money, then went back to the bus stop with nephew, and the very next bus was the No. 4 bus, and she and nephew got off at the corner of Allenby and Bialik. And someone seemed to have torn up all the pavement on Bialik Street, but there were a few inches left of sidewalk along which self led her nephew, and when we arrived at No. 14, which was a small, nondescript house, there were about 30 or 40 high school kids gathered at the entrance, waiting for the museum to open. Then, self remembered that she hadn’t yet had breakfast. So, since the museum wouldn’t open for about another 20 minutes, self led nephew back down the broken-down street, and found a café on Allenby. And, as luck would have it, this coffee house completely won over nephew with its mouth-watering displays of pastries and breakfast rolls — nephew had been exceedingly nervous with self’s adventurous ways and had been whining to be taken back to the apartment for the last 15 minutes — and self was able to get a table, and she had her first coffee in Israel, along with a plate of something called borekas filled with kashkaval cheese, and these little dumplings were simply to die for. And nephew had a kind of tart with apricots and peach slices on top, and he was in heaven too. And then, feeling excellent, we wended our way back to the Rubin Museum, and it was open. And the crowd of gaggling schoolchildren had mysteriously vanished, because we (and an American woman) were the only ones in the museum, and this is what we discovered:

    Gorgeous landscapes and portraits by a man who believed that “even the shade is luminous.”
    What he painted: Jaffa; the orange groves; the sand and the sea.

In a short film that self and her nephew watched before beginning our tour of the galleries, the painter uttered the following:

    “I didn’t learn to paint; I learned how to fulfill my dreams.”
    “Elsewhere there is light and there is shade; Here there is no shade. It was all desert, sea and air. Everything around was yellow, brown, gray and black.”

And these were among the paintings and sculptures that self saw and loved:

    “Madonna of the Poor”"Olive Grove”"View From a Window”"The Open Window”"Pomegranates on My Windowsill”"Jacob Wrestling with the Angel”"Self-Portrait with a Flower”"Jerusalem, 1923″

The book about Rubin that they sell in the gift shop was more than the entire contents of self’s wallet, so she contented herself with buying four postcards, which she divided with her nephew. The ones she got to keep: “Tel Aviv, 1922″ and “Orange Groves Near Jaffa.” Self’s brother said he’d been to Jaffa the day before she arrived and pronounced it “nothing much,” but self decides that she’ll get there. Even if she has to walk, she’ll get there.

Oh Netflix, Oh San Francisco Bay Guardian Writer’s Blog Anxiety

Yoo-hoo, Netflix person, if you are able to read this blog, kindly take note: the movies self ordered on Sunday have not arrived, self suspects are nowhere near the vicinity, and now self is experiencing the feeling that she should not have joined, that she should just have continued going to Blockbuster in San Carlos for her quick movie fixes. Here are the movies self is awaiting:

Colma, the Musical
Cavite

Yesterday self was wandering in the vicinity of Union Square. On a corner near Stockton and Sutter were a bank of newspaper stands, and self picked the San Francisco Bay Guardian to bring home (as self is cheap and the paper was free). And even though this morning self should be preparing for her class at xxxx community college, which begins in just two hours, she is perusing the paper, and will share with loyal blog readers the following excerpt from Annalee Newitz’s article, “Return of Blog Anxiety” :

Six years ago I wrote a column titled “Blog Anxiety,” which was all about how bloggers make me nervous and jealous with their lightning-fast news cycles. I bemoaned my inability to commit words to public record without waiting for editorial oversight and without waiting for publication day (inevitably several days if not weeks after I had written those words). I talked about how bloggers can cite sources they’ve talked to informally and how they seem blissfully unburdened by concerns about injecting a personal perspective into their writing.

That was before It All Changed. And by “It All Changed,” I don’t just mean that I became a blogger, which I did. More profoundly, I mean that blogs themselves have changed.

They are not the subterranean upstart media without rules anymore. I’m certainly not the first person to observe that blogs are fast becoming indistinguishable from mainstream media, and indeed places like the New York Times and the Washington Post have blogs that are often more newsy than the papers themselves.

Stay tuned, dear blog readers, stay tuned.